What is the truth about Dermaplaning?

When struggling with acne, uneven texture, or dull skin, it’s easy to feel desperate for a quick fix. Many people turn to dermaplaning, a popular treatment that promises smooth, glowing skin by scraping away the top layer of dead cells and peach fuzz. But as a professional skincare specialist, I can’t stress enough that dermaplaning isn’t the solution to your skin issues—especially if you’re struggling with acne.

Let me share why dermaplaning may actually be doing more harm than good, and how a personalized approach can deliver healthier, lasting results.

A Real Client’s Transformation

One of my recent clients had been battling acne for nearly four years. She’d tried almost every treatment available, including dermaplaning, but nothing seemed to work. In fact, after repeated dermaplaning sessions, her breakouts only got worse, and her skin became more sensitive. When she came to me, she was feeling disheartened and desperate for a solution that would finally help.

Instead of recommending another quick fix, I took the time to understand why her skin was reacting the way it was. We started with a relaxing deep exfoliation treatment, not dermaplaning, but one that respected the integrity of her skin barrier. After the session, we sat down and went over her daily routine, the products she was using, and the factors that might be triggering her acne. Together, we created a personalized plan that would treat her skin gently and get to the root cause of her breakouts.

From there, we planned eight sessions of gentle acid peels—one per week—designed to exfoliate without damaging the skin’s barrier. The results were incredible. After four years of struggling with acne, she finally had clear, healthy skin. And more importantly, she understood how to take care of her skin daily to keep those results going. Her journey is proof that long-term solutions are always better than temporary fixes.

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Why I Don’t Recommend Dermaplaning

Now, I know many beauty therapists recommend dermaplaning as a solution for acne and other skin concerns. But this is one of the biggest mistakes they can make. Here’s why I disagree with the use of dermaplaning:

1. It Shaves, Not Exfoliates
   Dermaplaning is essentially shaving your skin. While it may feel smooth afterward, it’s only because the top layer of skin has been scraped away. This layer—called the stratum corneum—acts as a protective barrier against bacteria, pollutants, and environmental stressors. Constantly removing it damages this natural defense, leading to irritation and increased sensitivity.

1. Thickening of the Skin and Clogged Pores
   Over time, repeated dermaplaning can cause your skin to become thicker in response to the trauma. When this happens, pores are more likely to become clogged with dirt, oil, and makeup, leading to more acne, not less. This is why I see many clients who have been recommended dermaplaning by other professionals, only to find their breakouts worsen over time.
2. Lack of Control with Handheld Devices
   Dermaplaning involves a handheld scalpel or blade, and it’s difficult to control how deeply you’re cutting into the skin. Even in professional hands, there’s always a risk of cutting into the surface, leading to small injuries that can cause scarring or infection. And for those who try dermaplaning at home, the risks are even higher. You’re essentially scraping away your skin without fully understanding how to protect it.

Dermaplaning for Acne: A Big Mistake

One of the most troubling trends I’ve seen is the recommendation of dermaplaning for acne-prone clients. Many beauty therapists suggest that scraping away the top layer of skin will help with acne by exfoliating dead skin cells. However, this approach is actually counterproductive. Here’s why:

• More Acne, Not Less
  Dermaplaning irritates the skin by stripping away its natural barrier, leaving it vulnerable to bacteria and dirt. This leads to clogged pores and inflammation, which can trigger more breakouts. Instead of resolving the issue, dermaplaning often creates a vicious cycle of acne, where clients are encouraged to come back for more treatments without addressing the real cause.
• A Vicious Cycle of Temporary Results
  After a dermaplaning session, you may notice temporary smoothness or a slight glow. But because the treatment doesn’t address the underlying causes of acne or dull skin, those effects fade quickly, and clients are told to return for more treatments. This endless loop not only becomes costly but can also cause cumulative damage to your skin.

What You Should Do Instead

If you’re serious about transforming your skin—whether you’re dealing with acne, uneven texture, or dullness—there are far better alternatives to dermaplaning. Here’s what I recommend instead:

1. Gentle Acid Peels
   Chemical peels using acids like glycolic or salicylic are a much gentler and more effective way to exfoliate. These treatments encourage cell turnover without damaging your skin’s protective barrier. Plus, they can help clear out clogged pores, reduce acne, and promote an even skin tone.
2. Microneedling
   This treatment uses fine needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen production and helping to renew the skin from within. It’s a more controlled procedure than dermaplaning and can yield better results for issues like acne scars or fine lines.
3. A Customized Skincare Routine
   More often than not, your skin issues can be improved by adjusting your daily routine. Finding the right combination of gentle cleansers, targeted treatments, and moisturizers can make a huge difference in how your skin looks and feels.

You Deserve More Than a Quick Fix

Your skin is unique, and it deserves a treatment plan that works for you, not a one-size-fits-all approach like dermaplaning. Quick fixes like this may offer temporary benefits, but they rarely solve the underlying issues that cause acne or dullness. Instead of scraping away your skin, I encourage you to think about what will support its long-term health.

When my clients come to me, it’s not just about offering them a treatment and sending them on their way. It’s about building a plan that nurtures their skin and helps them understand how to care for it.

Remember, you don’t need dermaplaning to achieve beautiful, healthy skin. You need a thoughtful, personalised plan that respects your skin’s needs and supports its natural healing process. I’m here to help you every step of the way.

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